At Valentino, a Dream Ending: Couture for the Casual Era

At Valentino, a Dream Ending: Couture for the Casual Era

And every look was named for a different seamstress at the Valentino atelier. Number 39, for example, “Rachele,” was a pair of generous black crepe pants slit to allow the ease of a skirt, beneath a silk georgette blouse with ruffles at the neck and wrists, plus 700 hours of lace embroidery.

“Part of the magic is not to show how much work goes into a garment,” Mr. Piccioli said. “But I wanted to celebrate the people who are usually hidden in the history of couture — to dignify their work, and give them recognition.”

That’s not about a dream; that’s about reality. Acknowledging it can produce surprisingly effective results. Just maybe, it’s a lesson that goes beyond couture but was well told by the week.


Slide Show

Viktor & Rolf: Spring 2018

CreditGio Staiano/Nowfashion


Such was the case, anyway, with Viktor & Rolf, where the Dutch designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren created an entire collection in a single fabric: Japanese technical duchess satin, the particularly malleable and glossy version of the material.

It could have been mind-numbingly repetitive but actually proved charmingly inventive, as they wove, ruffled, striped and flower-encrusted it. “Limitations stimulate creativity,” the show notes said. They were right.

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