Before There Was Gin, There Was Genever

Before There Was Gin, There Was Genever

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The latest attempt to repopularize genever comes in a clay bottle.

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Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

Bols, a centuries-old Dutch spirits company, has been reviving genever, the ancestor of gin, for several years. It has had two versions on the market and now is introducing what it says is one of the oldest recipes, dating from 1664. Within an old-fashioned clay bottle, the spirit, distilled entirely from malted grain, is clear, with complex, fruity and herbal notes and the all-important piney note of juniper. It’s best enjoyed on the rocks, or perhaps straight out of the freezer with some matjes herring: Bols Genever 100 percent malt spirit, $69.99 for 750 milliliters, warehousewinesandspirits.com.

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